Who's Leading Who? Becoming the Leader
Your dog nips when you try to take a toy from him...ignores your request to exit the couch...or yanks ahead on walks. If you feel like your dog is challenging authority, then he probably thinks he is the "alpha" of the home. He needs to be taught a new, well-defined pecking order - and a new, lower place in the family hierarchy - for everyone's welfare. He needs YOU to become his leader. Otherwise, he'll rebel, growl and possibly bite when faced with a challenge.
Dogs aren't looking for a democracy - they're looking for leaders. Dogs want to know their place in the family pack and what their people expected of them, otherwise they're stressed. Most often, an "aggression" problem is really a "stress and confusion" problem. If your dog tries to dominate you or someone else in your household, it's probably because he sees role confusion and responds by taking charge.
"Alpha" is an attitude. It is not achieved by force or punishment. Rather, it is earned through confident, authoritative, consistent behavior on the part of the owner, who we prefer to call the leader. Dogs can sense who's in charge immediately; they are continuously reading your body language and are aware each time their people don't enforce commands. Notice how most dogs watch a good obedience instructor - and how they seem to wait to be given direction. They express respect and interest, not fear.
Then notice how a good obedience instructor behaves. He or she will walk with confidence...stand up straight...use a firm tone of voice. And that voice expresses commands as a directive, not a question. ("Come...? Come on, come...?") The dog realizes this person makes the decisions.
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For dogs, it's natural to try to control their world with their jaws. Natural, but unacceptable. We need to regain control by using our minds.
How to reverse roles and become leader of the pack:
Step one: no more freebies. From now on, your dog must behave in order to earn the good things in life - petting, treats, meals, walks around the block. These are rewards you can use as you reinforce the new rules of behavior.
Use petting, feeding and playing as rewards. Before setting down the food bowl, instruct your dog to "sit." Say it only once. He receives his food - and enthusiastic praise ("Good boy!) only when he sits calmly. Pogo-ing from a seated position does not count. No "sit," no reward. Put the bowl out of his reach and walk away. Try again later. In addition, if your mealtimes coincide with your dog's, prepare his food first, but place it out of reach. Then eat your meal first before setting down his bowl. The leader in a dog pack eats first.
Subordinate dogs lick and bow to dominant dogs as a gesture of respect. So when you're working to modify the behavior of a dominant, unruly dog, reserve petting to use as positive reinforcement. To receive attention, he must obey a command such as "sit." Praise and pet as soon as he complies. If he prods you for more attention, ignore him. The idea is to convey to him that you decide when to begin and stop petting. The same should apply to playing, feeding and going for walks.
Lead the way, literally and figuratively. Starting today, don't let the dog bolt ahead ofyou out the door or drag you on walks. Keep your dog on leash, instruct him to sit, cross the threshold first and don't let him out until he complies. If he tends to push through the dog as you open it, slam it shut each time his nose approaches the opening. After 5 or 6 repetitions, he'll start getting the idea, but you cannot lapse and let him barrel out in front of you or he will resume the bolting behavior. On walks, strive to keep him at a heel.
Stay on a higher level than your dominant dog. During the retraining period, don't sit down to pet or play on the floor with your dog. Pet and praise from a level above the dog's head. In addition, at least until the dog learns his place in the pack, keep him off your bed and other furniture. He should stay at floor-level. On a related note, when you and your dog eye each other, as a leader you should hold the stare longer until he averts his eyes.
Stop the jumping. For dogs are challenging their people, it is important to discourage jumping up, as it is a dominating behavior. Ignore the dog, or command "Off" or "No." When greeting, give attention and petting to the dog only when he sits. If you later want to teach your dog to jump up (or get on the couch with you), you can, but the behavior should be on your terms.
No more playing favorites. If the dog ignores or intimidates another member of the household, let that person be the one to feed and dispense treats to the dog for now. It's essential that everyone in your family practices the same techniques while retraining the dog. Like a child, if a dog finds someone he can dominate, he'll do it.
Control the games. Tell family and friends not to taunt, wrestle or play tug-of-war - these games encourage dogs to dominate physically and to use their teeth. The outcome of games determines who's dominant in a pack. Instead, play hide and seek with a prized toy or fetch. As leader, you must be the one who decides when to start and end the game. Stop playing before the dog loses interest.
Use a crate. The crate serves several important functions. It gives the dog a secure den to call his own - a place to retreat when he wants to relax. Keep the crate door open when you're home so that he can enter if he'd like. The crate also helps you establish a new routine during retraining. Work on training him to go into the crate willingly, on command. Don't take "no" for an answer. To make the crate a welcoming place, start by giving him treats for going in the crate and feeding him in this area. Before training sessions, keep him in the crate an hour so that when you let him out, it will be easier to focus all of his attention on you. This practice also conveys that you, the leader, decides when he goes in and exits the crate. If your dog barks in the crate, ignore him. Do not release him until he's quiet and somewhat relaxed.
Diligently work at retraining so you can reach a point when your dog looks to you as the leader who decides what to do and when. And when you reach that point, don't slack off. You and the other human members of your household should always exude leadership and confidence. In most cases, if a dog knows he can depend on you, he will respect you and his new position on the family totem pole.
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WHAT TO DO WHEN ANIMAL CONTROL COMES KNOCKING (Mr. Eigenhauser is an attorney at law licensed in the State of California since 1979 and practices in the areas of civil litigation and estate planning)
Anti-Dog Enforcement - What Every Dog Owner Needs to Know Dog owners and ethical breeders are increasingly being targeted. Disgruntled neighbors may retaliate against dog owners and may other reasons drive complaints, and anti-dog enforcement action, which many times may be conducted illegally. The following text outlines methods of inquiry and enforcement which may be used by local officials in attempts to enforce ordinances in your community and suggested techniques of response. These techniques are entirely legal and based upon the rights of citizens as stated by the U.S. Constitution. No rescuer or pet owner wants to have Animal Control come knocking on the door...but if they do, it will help if you know what your options are. Remember, Animal Control is law enforcement. They are bound by the same Constitution as any other government agency. To protect yourself, you need to know your rights. These vary slightly one jurisdiction to another, but some general principles apply. One rule applies everywhere: never physically resist an officer. When Animal Control is At Your Door: 1. Do not let them in, no matter how much they ask. Animal Control generally cannot enter your home without a warrant, or your permission. While regular police can enter in emergency situations when human life is at risk (i.e. they hear gunshots and a scream inside), there are few, if any, situations in which Animal Control can enter your home without a warrant. Simply tell them they may not come in. 2. If you let them in, anything they find in "plain sight" can be used against you. In some circumstances Animal Control officers, unable to find a legitimate reason to make an arrest, have reported building or zoning violations. This may include caging you attached to a wall without a building permit, that extra outlet in the puppy room, having more pets than allowed by zoning, even extension cords in violation of fire codes! No matter how clean your kennel, if they want to find a violation, they will. 3. Do not talk to them from an open doorway. Step outside an close (and lock if possible) the door behind you. This is necessary because: A) Anything they see through the open door is "plain sight" and may be the basis for an arrest, or probable cause for a search warrant. B) If they make an arrest or even feel threatened they are usually permitted to search for weapons in your immediate area. Do you keep a baseball bat inside the door for your protection? Even if you don't, once they step inside to look, they are in your home and may continue to search. C) It is hard not to be intimidated by someone in authority. Some animal control is even done by local police, who carry guns. It is easy for them to get "in your face", causing you to back up into the home. Once you go in, it will be interpreted as an invitation to follow. 4. If they claim to have a warrant, demand to see it. In general, a search warrant must be signed by a judge. A warrant to search your home for dogs does not include an inventory of your jewelry box. A warrant to search your kennel in the garage or in the barn does not include a search of your home. 5. In some locations dog owners may have obtained special "breeder or rescue permits" that stipulate that Animal Control has your permission to enter at any time. If you have signed such a permit they still cannot enter against your wishes, since you can revoke the permission at any time. However, if you refuse permission it may allow them to cancel your permit, so you have to weigh the consequences. 6. Warning - anyone in lawful possession of the premises may be able to give permission for a search. Make sure your roommate, babysitter, dog-sitter, housekeeper and other know that they should not let animal control into your home or on your property (i.e. backyard, garage, etc.). How to Handle Questions: 1. Don’t answer any questions beyond identifying yourself for the officer. Anything you say to the officer in your defense cannot be used in court (hearsay). Anything you say that is harmful to you will be used in court (confessions are not considered hearsay). You cannot win, except by remaining silent. 2. Be polite but firm. Do not argue, bad-mouth, curse, threaten or try to intimidate the officer. 3. Do not lie to an officer, ever. However, it is NOT a lie to exercise your right to remain silent. 4. Keep your hands in plain sight. People have been shot by police when common objects, such as a wallet, were mistaken for a gun. 5. Do not touch the officer in any way. Do not physically resist an officer, no matter how unlawful his or her actions. 6. Don't try to tell your side of the story, it cannot help. 7. Do not threaten the officer that you plan to file a complaint for their actions. 8. If the questioning persists, demand to speak to a lawyer first. Repeat as necessary. Gathering the Facts: 1. Get the name and badge number of each officer involved. If he/she does not volunteer this information, ask. 2. Ask the name of the agency they represent. Different agencies have different enforcement responsibilities. 3. Ask why they are there. Request the factual basis of the complaint and the identity of the complainant. 4. If they have other people with them (Humane Society, press, etc.) get the names and organizations for all present. 5. Note the names (and addresses) of any witnesses to the encounter. 6. If you are physically injured by an officer, you should take photographs of the injuries immediately, but do not forego proper medical treatment first. 7. Write down all of the information, as well as the date and time of the incident immediately, while details are fresh in your mind. 8. If you rights are violated, file a complaint with the appropriate body. If You Are Arrested: 1. Remain silent. Answer no questions until you have consulted with a lawyer. 2. Don't "explain" anything. You will have time for explanations after you have talked to a lawyer. 3. Within a reasonable time they must allow you to make a phone call to get a lawyer or arrange bail. They are not allowed to listen to your phone call to your attorney, but they may "monitor" the rooms for "your protection". Do not say anything you do not want them to overhear; save that until after you are out on bail. Telephone Inquiries or Threats: You may receive telephone inquiries concerning the number of dogs you own . Other questions may also be asked. If your conversation indicates that the person is representing the county clerk's office or allegedly representing an official body, ask the caller for:
Preventative Measures: 1. Always keep you kennel clean and take good care of your animals. 2. Consider a P.O. Box or other address for business cards and advertisements. Keep descriptions of your location general (i.e. Southern California, rather than the name of the city where you live). The internet can provide anonymity for initial contacts. You can even buy a "remote prefix" to get a number from a nearby community forwarded to your phone or to a voice mail. Avoid local newspaper classifieds, they are often monitored. 3. Screen any potential adopters carefully. Always be alert that they may be Animal Control or even Animal Rights working under cover. 4. Don't allow strangers into your home until you have screened them. 5. Be fair and honest in all of your dealings, and be on good terms with your neighbors. Most animal control contacts are complaint-driven. Some complaints may arise as harassment by people with unrelated grievances against you. It may be a disgruntled dog buyer or a cranky neighbor who doesn't like you parking in front of his house. 6. Anything about you that can be observed in "plain sight" from the street or sidewalk can become probably cause for a warrant. Even areas on your property open to visitors can be dangerous. Be aware of which areas of your home are visible from the outside and plan accordingly. 7. If you are confronted by Animal Control and turn them away, assume they will be back. Use the time available to make sure everything is clean and presentable. If you are over the limit on the number of pets, find friends who can provide temporary shelter for your dogs. Whatever you do, stay calm and keep your wits about you. Just say "no", no matter what threats or promises of leniency they make. When in doubt, say nothing and speak to a lawyer afterwards.
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A Letter from a Shelter Manager: As a shelter manager, I am going to share a little insight with you all ...a view from the inside, if you will. First off, all of you breeders/sellers should be made to work in the "back" of an animal shelter for just one day. ONE DAY! Maybe if you saw the life drain from these sad, lost, & confused eyes, you would change your mind about breeding and selling to people you don't even know. That puppy you just sold will most likely end up in my shelter when it's not a cute little puppy anymore. So how would you feel if you knew that there's a 90% chance that dog will never walk out of the shelter where it's going to be dumped? Purebred or not ...about 50% of all of the dogs that are "owner surrenders" or "strays" are purebred dogs! "We're moving and can't take our dog (or cat)." Really?! "The dog got bigger than we thought it would." How big did you think a German Shepherd would get? They always tell me, "we just don't want to have to stress about finding a place for her. We know she'll get adopted, she's a good dog." Odds are your pet won't get adopted. How stressful do you think it is to be dumped at a shelter? Well, let me tell you, your pet has 72 hours to find a new family from the moment you drop it off. Sometimes a little longer if the shelter isn't full and your dog manages to stay completely healthy. If it sniffles, it dies. Your pet will be confined to a small run/kennel in a room with about 25 other barking or crying animals. It will have to relieve itself where it eats and sleeps. It will be depressed and it will cry constantly for the family that abandoned it. If your pet is lucky, I will have enough volunteers in that day to take him/her for a walk. If I don't, your pet won't get any attention besides having a bowl of food slid under the kennel door and the waste sprayed out of it's pen with a high-powered hose. If your dog is big, black or any of the "Bully" breeds (Pit Bull, Rottie, Mastiff, etc) it was pretty much dead when you walked through the front door. Those dogs just don't get adopted. It doesn't matter how 'sweet' or 'well behaved' they are. If your dog doesn't get adopted within it's 72 hours and the shelter is full, it will be destroyed. If the shelter isn't full and your dog is good enough, and of a desirable enough breed it may get a stay of execution, but not for long. Most dogs get very kennel protective after about a week and are destroyed for showing aggression. Even the sweetest dogs will turn in this environment. Here's a little Euthanasia 101 for those of you that have never witnessed a perfectly healthy, scared animal being "put-down;" First, your pet will be taken from it's kennel on a leash. They always look like they think they are going for a walk ...happy, wagging their tails ...until they get to "The Room." Every one of them freaks out and puts the brakes on when they get to the door. It must smell like death or they can feel the sad souls that are left in there. It's strange, but it happens with every one of them. Your dog or cat will be restrained, held down by 1 or 2 vet techs depending on their size and how freaked out they are. Then a euthanasia tech or a vet will start the process. They will find a vein in the front leg and inject a lethal dose of the "pink stuff". Hopefully your pet doesn't panic from being restrained and jerk. I've seen needles tear out of a leg and been covered with the resulting blood & deafened by the yelps and screams. They all don't just "go to sleep," sometimes they spasm for a while, gasp for air and defecate on themselves. When it all ends, your pet's corpse will be stacked like firewood in a large freezer in the back ...with all of the other animals killed that day ...waiting to be picked up like garbage. Between 9 and 11 MILLION animals die every year in shelters and only you can stop it. I do my best to save every life I can but rescues are always full, and there are more animals coming in everyday than there are homes. My point to all of this: DON'T BREED OR BUY WHILE SHELTER PETS DIE. I hope someone will walk into my shelter and say "I saw this and it made me want to adopt." |
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Tips for Orange County Homeowners with Pets Facing Foreclosure |
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1. Your Commitment 2. Make a Plan
3. Find a Pet Friendly Place 4. If You Can’t Take Them With You, Find a Safe Place for Them to Stay on a Temporary Basis.
• Ask your veterinarian if you can receive low-cost boarding for your pets, or set up a payment plan for boarding costs, while you relocate.
For more pet resorts, check out - www.poopbutler.com/cats.php?p=2&cat=4 5. If You Can’t Find a Temporary Home, Contact Rescue Groups 6. If You Can’t Find a Rescue Group, Try Other Ways
7. If You Can’t Find a Solution, Call a Shelter 8. Don't Leave Pets Behind Never vacate your home and leave your pets behind. Don’t turn them loose. It's inhumane and it’s illegal. By following these simple steps, you will help your family and your pets have a better future. ABOUT THE AUTHOR |
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First of all, you must remember that your puppy doesn't already understand what is expected of her! It is up to you to teach her, and to do so with PATIENCE AND UNDERSTANDING. Your puppy doesn't automatically know that it is wrong or bad to go to the bathroom inside the house or on the rug. She doesn't know anything at all - she is learning every day by what she is allowed to do, and by what she is consistently taught to do! 1. Pick a safe place where you can put your puppy while you are not at home, or when you are too busy to watch her. It is imperative that you provide a safe place where she can make no mjistakes, and where no harm comes to her. It should be somewhat small, with her bed, water, toys and a place designated as a "bathroom" area. This can consist of: newspapers, puppy pads, a square sod, etc. An "x-pen" is perfect to set up invarious rooms as a safe place for your puppy. 2. Whenever your puppy is out of her safe place, she MUST BE WATCHED AT ALL TIMES!!! It is helpful to let your puppy drag around a light line to help you be more aware of her whereabouts. If you are busy you can attach the line under a chair leg, or step on it, etc. Therefore, if your puppy starts to relieve herself in front of you, you will be able to correct her. (Notice the word "correct", as opposed to "punish". 3. A correction consists of startling your puppy just as she begins to squat and go to the bathroom - you can call out No! or Wrong!, etc and immediately hustle your puppy out the fastest route to the appropriate bathroom place. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES are you to hit her, rub her face in it, or tell her how bad she is. Remember, you are teaching her how to do the right thing! It is helpful to use a word which means go to the bathroom such as OUTSIDE or POTTY, etc. Then your puppy will learn what that word means and eventually be able to go on command for you. 4. If you get your puppy outside very quickly as part of your correction, then you want to tell him "Good puppy" as soon as he gets outside to the appropriate place. This will help him understand the association you are trying to teach: "you mustn't go to the bathroom in the house --go to the bathroom here...you are a good puppy when you are outside going to the bathroom!" 5. If you follow these instructions, your puppy will be housebroken in a matter of days. There is no great secret mystery to it, you simply must be very consistent and aware of your timing as you teach your puppy these household rules. 6. FINALLY: if your puppy does go to the bathroom in the house during this training phase, remember one important thing: IT'S YOUR FAULT! YOU SHOULD HAVE BEEN WATCHING HIM!
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Dog Licensing in Orange County - IT'S THE LAW All dogs in Orange County over the age of four (4) months are required by law to be licensed and vaccinated against rabies. Residents owning or having custody of any dog must license the dog within fifteen (15) days of acquisition or within fifteen (15) days after the license becomes due. Residents must provide proof of a California approved rabies vaccination to obtain a license. To obtain a dog license, contact Orange County Animal Care Services at (714) 935-6848 or click here for more information.
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Deadly Toxins in Dogs
The following is for informational purposes only. If you believe your dog has ingested any of the following contact your vet immediately.
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Pets Need Dental Care, Too
Look for these Warning Signs * Bad breath, one of the first signs of dental disease. Animal Dental Care * www.animaldentalcare.info * 949.258.4402
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Barks of Love would like to share some important information with you! Now that warmer weather is on the way, we need to start thinking about protecting your pets from harmful parasites. So let's team up.  Pests are a year-round problem. But they're even more of a worry in the warmer months. And now that parasite season in approaching, it's time to take your pets to the veterinarian for a parasite prevention check-up. It's quick. It's easy. And it can head off disease. Fleas: Pets get them from surfaces in infested environments frequented by other pets and wildife. Massage pet's coat to see if flea "dirt" (dried flea feces) falls out. Ticks: Pets get them from playing in wooded, grassy or damp areas. Inspect especially neck, ears and between toes. Heartworm: Pets get it from mosquito bites. Annual heartworm blood tests should be provided by your veterinarian. Tapeworm: Pets get it from swallowing fleas. Provide regularly scheduled fecal test provided by veterinarian. Plus, check for "rice-like" worm segment near tail or on feces. Hookworm: Passed from mother to offspring at birth or through milk, or larva that penetrates pet's skin. Again, provide regularly scheduled fecal tests. Whipworm: Pets get it from oral ingestion of worm eggs, usually from animal feces or contaminated soil. Provide regularly scheduled fecal tests.
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PUPPY DEVELOPMENT DO'S AND DON'TS  DO offer your puppy puzzle toys. "Food puzzle toys are like Prozac for puppies". The busier that puppy mouth is on toys, the less biting you'll get on furniture. Their brains are also physically deveoping, and puzzles will help them become more intelligent. DO offer a variety of chew toys- from soft plushes to hard rubber toys. They will stimulate your puppy's brain, help its jaw muscles develop and discourage it from chewing on other objects, such as Grandma's hand knitted afghan ;) DO introduce your puppy to new experiences, people, noises, and dogs. Socialization helps your puppy grow into a confident, friendly adult. DO let your dog play freely for at least 10 to 30 minutes a day. Let its impusles lead the way. DON'T allow your puupy to jump from beds or couches, or over agility or obedience jumps. Dogs younger than 1 year typically have fragile, unfinished bones and joints. DON'T roll your puppy over or pin it to the ground. Any type of physical or abusive punishment usually only backfires and makes the puppy more troublesome and physical. If you have a particularly bossy puppy, have it play with a well-socialized adult dog that can correct appropriately through avoidance and possible a growl or an air snap. An adult dog's timing and understanding of what good play looks like is much better than what most humans can do! DON'T force your puppy to face anything it's really cared of, which includeds thunder, trucks and yelling children. Instead, gradually use treats and praise to convince your puppy that scary objects aren't scary after all.
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UKC ANNOUNCES TOP BREEDS FOR 2008 1. Treeing Walker Coonhound |
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AKC's Top 10 Breeds - FYI, WE SEE THESE DOGS IN SHELTERS ALL THE TIME! 1. Labrador Retriever
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Dog Park Safety Today, dog parks are as common as playgrounds. In fact, some people say that dogs are the new "kids," but it’s important to remember that dogs are very different than your average preschoolers. If you take your dog to the dog park, follow these safety tips: • Before taking your dog to the park, visit it alone. Have a look at the park’s posted rules. Ask other dog owners about the vibe at the park—are the other dogs friendly? Are they mostly big or small dogs? • Make sure that your dog is socialized to other dogs. Some dogs are afraid of or aggressive toward other dogs. If you have an anti-social pup, consult a behaviorist or trainer to help you socialize him before you become a regular at the dog park. • When you first take your dog to the dog run, try to go during an off-peak hour. It can be very crowded after work or on weekends and your dog may be intimidated by all of the activity. Make sure his first experience at the park is fun! • Be certain that your dog’s vaccinations are up to date before taking him to the park. • Never take a female in heat to the park. Some parks have rules against intact males. • Remove your dog’s leash as soon as you enter the park. Leash aggression is common when one dog is on a leash and the others aren’t. • Keep a flat or rolled nylon or leather collar on your dog at all times. Remove a choke or prong collar if you use one. • If you bring toys to the dog park, prepare to share them with other dogs. If your dog is not good at sharing, leave his beloved toys at home. • If you bring treats, make sure they are secure in a pouch or pocket. Other dogs will hound you for a treat—ask their owners before you indulge them. • Recognize the difference between play and aggression. Some dogs play roughly and growl or bark. Many dogs like this level of play, and those that don’t usually avoid the rambunctious player. • Recognize aggressive behavior—this includes raised hackles, bared teeth, and growling. If your dog is being aggressive, call him to you and remove him from the park for the day. If another owner’s dog is the aggressor, let him or her know that you feel uncomfortable with the way their dog is behaving—but do it nicely! • If a fight breaks out, don’t get in the middle of it! Throw something into the fray, like a coat, or turn a hose on the brawlers. If your dog is involved in the fight, remove him for the day. Do not grab your dog by the collar if he’s in an aggressive mode; this will only fuel his hostility. If your dog is not involved in the fight, grab him before he can join in. • Watch your dog at all times. It’s inappropriate to leave your dog in the run by himself, talk on your cell phone, or read a book. • Don’t bring young children to the dog park. If you do, bring an older child and enforce a few rules: Don’t approach a dog you don’t know until you ask the owner if the dog likes kids; don’t run around making loud noises, which could provoke the prey drive in some dogs; don’t try to take a toy or food away from any dog; and always keep your shoes on. • Above all, have fun!
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Delicious for us, Dangerous to Dogs; Foods to Keep Away From Your Dog Most of us who live with animals know that chocolate and dogs do not mix. But there are many other harmful foods lurking in our pantries and fridges – seemingly innocent vegetables, fruits, and other edibles that may be delicious to us, but are dangerous, and even deadly, to our dogs. To learn more about what foods are and aren’t safe for dogs to share with us, we consulted veterinary nutritionist Joan Weiskopf, author of Pet Food Nation: The Smart, Easy, and Healthy Way to Feed Your Pet Now (Collins). A breeder of champion Bedlington terriers, Weiskopf is a font of information on the subject of what foods are and aren’t safe for dogs to eat, and has a thriving business consulting by telephone with clients about individual canine diets. Take onions and garlic, for instance. These culinary staples are used to create any number of delicious recipes from all over the culinary map. The trouble is that onions and garlic cause serious health problems in dogs. "Onions and garlic both contain N-propyl disulfide, which destroys red blood cells, leading to hemolytic anemia," Weiskopf says. And despite garlic’s longstanding reputation as a flea repellent, "There really is no scientific proof that garlic prevents fleas." (What really works to prevent fleas is Neem oil.) What if Spot scores a bite of the kids’ pizza, or a lick of Ragu spaghetti sauce? Or what if you’ve made chicken soup with onions, and you’d like to ladle some over your Friend’s bowl? Don’t panic, Weiskopf advises. "Nothing’s going to happen. What you don’t want to be doing is chopping raw onions into your dog’s bowl! A little onion or garlic is fine once in a while; a lot is not a good thing." Be careful with onion and garlic powders, as well, or any product containing them (i.e. chips), for besides being more concentrated, powdered onion and garlic also contain salt. "Salt preserved with anti-caking agents is bad," Weiskopf says. "I prefer Celtic sea salt because a little goes a long way, plus it contains all kinds of good microtrace nutrients. But sugar is a no." Red pepper, on the other hand, is good for dogs with arthritis because of the Capsaicin it contains; other spices recommended for dogs with joint swelling are "all the yellow spices: turmeric, cumin, and curry," Weiskopf adds. If you’re a cooking buff with a regular habit of setting saucepans and plates on the floor for Spot to lick clean (also known as the "pre-wash" cycle in dog-friendly kitchens), you could be compromising his health if you cook certain other veggies. "Dogs - and humans - with arthritis should be careful about overloading on nightshade vegetables, as they aggravate arthritic conditions," Weiskopf points out. "The nightshade vegetables - so called because they mature at night - include green peppers, eggplants, potatoes, and tomatoes." Raisins and grapes are forbidden fruit, for they can cause kidney failure in dogs; sadly, many pets have died from ingesting raisins. Although it’s not known exactly why grapes and raisins don’t agree with dogs, Weiskopf has a theory: "Grapes are a heavily sprayed crop, and since so many grapes are coming from Chile, I suspect there’s a pesticide that’s causing problems for dogs. Also, raisins are preserved with sulfites, which cause allergic reactions in many dogs." (Be wary of foods preserved with nitrates, as well, such as sausages and bacon; delicious as these are, they too can trigger allergic reactions in dogs.) "Legumes such as soy products and beans contain phytate, which inhibits the digestion and absorption of other vital nutrients – including your dog’s important minerals," Weiskopf says. "If you’re going to feed legumes of any kind, such as chickpeas or lima beans, at least make sure they’re well-cooked, because that does help; it’s much worse if your dog eats these raw." Many seasoned snackers – especially the vegetarians in our midst – keep on hand a supply of that hugely popular chickpea dip known as hummus. Again, don’t panic if Spot helps himself to some. "If you’re eating crackers and hummus and your dog gets one, don’t worry that you’ve harmed your dog – just don’t let him ingest huge amounts of legumous vegetables." Meanwhile, if Italian food is on the menu and you’re letting your pet participate in pasta preparation, make sure Spot does not take his al dente. "Always overcook grains and pasta when you feed them to dogs, because they don’t have the starch-digesting enzymes that we do," Weiskopf explains. "It’s best to overcook any grain material that you feed your dog, including rice." On the road to and from grandmother’s house for a holiday feast, the fast-food signs are bound to beckon. "If you’re stopping for a bite at McDonald’s or KFC, I don’t have a problem with giving the dog some chicken – just peel off the skin, because it’s got all kinds of spices in it. Another acceptable road food option is the McDonald’s Filet of Fish sandwich." In fact, "fish is absolutely fabulous for dogs," Weiskopf says, "and you should include the skin because in and under the skin is where the majority of the Omega 3 is stored, and you want your dogs to have Omega 3s. Deep, cold water fish are best: salmon, mackerel, sardines. Anchovies are too salty." Thanksgiving has its own caveats. Don’t let your dog lick the turkey-roasting pan – "that’s the surefire way to give a dog a pancreatitis attack," Weiskopf says. "You can pour a tablespoon of drippings over your dog’s food, but do not let him lick the pan clean." Carved turkey meat and small bits of skin are fine dog treats; cooked turkey bones are not. If you’re not planning to use the turkey neck for another culinary purpose, such as gravy, offer it raw to your dog as a special holiday treat – but first, dip it in boiling water for 10 seconds to kill surface bacteria. Cranberries are fine, but avoid canned cranberry as it’s high in sugar. Sweet potatoes are also fine; just take care never to serve your dog raw skin off any potato. Upon graduating from puppyhood, dogs start to resemble lactose-intolerant people. "After infancy, dogs lose the enzyme Lactase, which helps them digest milk products," Weiskopf says. "Feeding milk products to dogs and cats can cause gastric distress. However," she adds, "feeding them fermented milk products such as yogurt and buttermilk are fine for dogs; they don’t usually distress the animal’s system. For those who just can’t resist giving dogs ice cream, go ahead – in moderation. "You can give them some ice cream; a little bit isn’t going to hurt," Weiskopf says. "But if you notice your dog gets gastric distress, don’t do it again." And of course, avoid any ice cream flavor that contains chocolate, chocolate chips, or raisins.
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A Tiny Microchip Could be a Lifesaver if You Lose Your Dog "The way I hear it if we can get the folks to take us in to the pet hospital they will inject us with a high tech. computerized microchip that will keep us safe if we ever get lost" - your dog :) END YOUR WORRIES...bout losing your pet and having it end up put to sleep or sold to some research laboratory!!! An ID collar is still a good idea, but if the collar is lost or reoved the hidden microchip will provide the protection that can make the difference between life or death for your pet. SAFE, PAINLESS, INEXPENSIVE...DON'T WAIT UNTIL IT'S TOO LATE!!! The technical term is radio frequency identification – RFID for short – but you know it as a microchip: a compact computer chip, about the size of a grain of rice, that contains an ID number. In a painless procedure, the chip is injected by a vet under an animal’s skin. When registered on a database, the chip’s ID number connects to the pet’s vital stats, including his owner’s name, address, and telephone number. It’s a high-tech ID device that, unlike dog collars or tags, will never become separated from the animal. Happily, it’s become routine procedure at animal shelters across the country to microchip dogs at the point of adoption, so the animal may at least find his way back to the safety of the shelter, which then can contact the adopter in case the person never got around to registering. (Home Again, a microchip manufacturer, generously donates free scanners to animal shelters across the country for precisely this purpose.)
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WHAT TO FEED YOUR DOG Here is kind of a guideline for grading dog foods. While I don't agree with everything on here I think it is a good starting point (sorry it is so long, I don't have the link any more) How to grade your dog's food: 1) For every listing of "by-product", subtract 10 points 2) For every non-specific animal source ("meat" or "poultry", meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points 3) If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points 4) For every grain "mill run" or non-specific grain source, subtract 5 points 5) If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. "ground brown rice", "brewers rice", "rice flour" are all the same grain), subtract 5 points 6) If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points 7) If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points 8 ) If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points 9) If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points 10) If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points 11) If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points 12) If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points 13) If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isn'tt allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points 14) If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isn''t allergic to beef), subtract 1 point 15) If it contains salt, subtract 1 point Extra Credit: 1) If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points 2) If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points 3) If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points 4) If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points 5) If the food contains fruit, add 3 points 6) If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points 7) If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points 8 ) If the food contains barley, add 2 points 9) If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points 10) If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point 11) If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point 12) For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count "chicken" and "chicken meal" as only one protein source, but "chicken" and "" as 2 different sources), add 1 point 13) If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point 14) If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point 94-100+ = A Here are some foods that have already been scored. If you don't see your dog's food here, ask and someone will score it for you. Artemis Large/Medium Breed Puppy / Score 114 A+ Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 A+ Authority Harvest Baked Less Active / Score 93 B Beowulf Back to Basics / Score 101 A+ Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 F Blackwood 3000 Lamb and Rice / Score 83 C Blue Buffalo Chicken and Rice / Score 106 A+ Burns Chicken and Brown Rice / Score 107 A+ Canidae / Score 112 A+ Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 A+ Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 F Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 B Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 A Diamond Performance / Score 85 C Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 A+ Dick Van Patten?Natural Balance Venison and Brown Rice / Score 106 A+ Dick Van Patten's Duck and Potato / Score 106 A+ EaglePack Holistic / Score 102 A+ Eukanuba Adult / Score 81 C Eukanuba Puppy / Score 79 C Flint River Senior / Score 101 A+ Foundations / Score 106 A+ Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 B Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 D Innova Dog / Score 114 A+ Innova Evo / Score 114 A+ Innova Large Breed Puppy / Score 122 A+ Kirkland Signature Chicken, Rice, and Vegetables / Score 110 A+ Member Mark Chicken and Rice / Score 84 C Merrick Wilderness Blend / Score 127 A+ Nature Recipe / Score 100 A Nature Recipe Healthy Skin Venison and Rice / Score 116 A+ Nature Variety Raw Instinct / Score 122 A+ Nutra Nuggets Super Premium Lamb Meal and Rice / Score 81 C Nutrience Junior Medium Breed Puppy / Score 101 A+ Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B Nutro Max Adult / Score 93 B Nutro Natural Choice Oatmeal / Score 101 A+ Nutro Natural Choice Lamb and Rice / Score 98 A Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Puppy / Score 87 B Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Lamb and Rice Puppy / Score 98 A Nutro Natural Choice Puppy Wheat Free / Score 86 B Nutro Natural Choice Senior / Score 95 A Nutro Ultra Adult / Score 104 A+ Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 F Premium Edge Chicken, Rice and Vegetables Adult Dry / Score 109 A+ Pro Nature Puppy / Score 80 C Pro Plan Sensitive Stomach / Score 94 A Purina Benful / Score 17 F Purina Dog / Score 62 F Purina Come-n-Get It / Score 16 F Purina One Large Breed Puppy / Score 62 F Royal Canin Boxer / Score 103 A+ Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 A+ Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 A+ Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 F Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 F Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 A Solid Gold / Score 99 A Summit / Score 99 A Timberwolf Organics Wild & Natural Dry / Score 120 A+ Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 A+
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Leaving Your Dog Alone & Avoiding Separation Anxiety 
Initially, your new dog may experience separation anxiety when you leave. Using a crate can reduce accidents and other problems rooted in insecurity by providing a safe and welcome haven. Most dogs like cozy places, which is why you often see dogs resting under tables. Teach your dog from the start that "all good things happen in the crate." Place nice bedding in the crate, along with dog toys that you can rotate for variety. Feed your dog in the crate. Give him praise and treats for venturing into the crate, and for resting there calmly.
You can also confine your dog in the kitchen or hallway using baby gates. Jumping dogs may require you to piggyback two gates atop each other.
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When you get ready to leave, quietly say "good dog!" and provide a small treat. Don't say good-bye; just leave. When you return, quietly praise the dog for being good and take her out immediately.
Make your schedule as consistent as possible. Remember: it is not fair to get upset if a dog has an accident after being left alone a long time. One popular solution: hire a mid-day dog walker.
When you first bring your dog home, should you spend the whole day with her? No - this is one of the biggest mistakes dog adopters make. Instead: have her bed, safe chew toys and water ready in the confined area in which she'll stay when you're gone - whether it's a crate or in a gated-off kitchen area. Take her to that area, tell her to lie "down," give her a chew toy and a treat and praise, using her name.
Next, step away. If she remains quiet, good; don't talk to her, because that will distract her from this desired behavior. Before she begins to grow restless, take her back outside again to play or walk.
Return her to the crate, then go into another room for longer periods. Next, leave the house and come back in right away. Gradually make those trips longer and longer; vary the duration you're out. Your dog will be less anxious as she learns that when you leave, you eventually come back.
Give her a treat while she's in the crate, and talk to her while she is in the crate, so she'll come to accept the crate. By being reliable, you'll gain her trust - and teach her that you decide what to do.
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This doesn't guarantee she'll stay quiet for very long periods. In fact, it's counter-productive to crate more than 5 to 6 hours after the transition period. But used properly, the crate is an excellent tool for you and comfort zone for your dog.
